Modelmates weathering spray is a translucent spray dye, not an acrylic paint.Modelmates colours have dirty tones to them which makes things look old and weathered. It dries fast and is easy to use.Its water soluble. Spray some into a dish and let it dry. Wet it and it will dissolve and behave similar to a water colour paint and can be brush applied.Spray it onto a non-porous surface, let it dry, then smudge and wipe it with a damp tissue to create a weathered effect.See the How To Use page for instructions on spraying.Modelmates is ozone friendly.

Weathering spray dye

MODELMATES

HOW TO USE & GENERAL INFORMATION

It’s Dye, Not Paint - For Use On Models & Scenery - Interior Use Only. All sprays are 200ml sized cans.WARNING:Practice spraying before final use. Always test first on hidden surfaces or off-cuts of a model and ensure compatibilityand adhesion. We recommend practicing techniques on cheaper, disposable models before spraying anything of value. Modelmates can cause permanent discolouration, please read the information below before use. If a surface is porous it will absorb the dye and be permanently discoloured. Many painted and printed surfaces are porous and will be permanently stained by the dye. If in doupt, then seal the surface with Testers Dullcote - 1260 flat lacquer, or similar quality matt lacquer before spraying with Modelmates.

PREPARATIONS BEFORE USE:

Ensure all surfaces are clean, dry and free from grease.Mask areas of the model that are not to be sprayed.Spray over suitable protective sheets.Shake the can for at least 15 seconds before use (and often while spraying).Spray to one side first to clear the nozzle.

THERE ARE FOUR MAIN METHODS OF APPLYING MODELMATES - LISTED BELOW:

1. Even Spray Application For Non Porous Models:The objective is to spray a mist of dye onto the model.Hold the can in an upright position 300mm to 400mm from the model. Point the spray nozzle at the protective sheets to one side and not at the model itself. Fully depress the nozzle and start spraying the protective sheets and immediately move the spray across the model once only in one smooth motion keeping the nozzle fully depressed all the time. Stop depressing the nozzle as soon as the spray has passed over the model. Do not spray back and forth, just once in one direction. The faster the can is moved, the less spray is applied - so move fast, not slow. It always surprises me how much dye is deposited this way, so please spray lightly at first, at least until you are happy with your technique.Use sparingly, apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat, and let each dry before applying another.

Drying time is usually less than a minute.

If the model being sprayed in non-porous it can be smudged with a slightly damp tissue to create a patchy

weathered finish.

The spray must be fully dry and the tissue must be just slightly damp and not wet, otherwise too

much dye will be removed. I find a twisting motion best for smudging. Hold the tissue gently against the surface and twist it, just removing just a small amount of dye at a time.

Another method for more detailed work is to wipe the dye off the surface with the edge of a tissue or with a cotton bud. The wetter the tissue the more dye will be removed.

Re-sprayed and re-smudge several times and the dye will build up where it has not been smudged and will darken in these areas.

2. Dense Spray Application For Non-porous Models:

For a really rustic effect on non-porous plastic models, spray gently with the nozzle almost touching the surface to create a small puddle of dye. Wait about 5 minutes for it to dry - it has to dry completely or this method will not work. Wipe it off gently with slightly damp tissue leaving dry dye trapped in cracks and protrusions such as board joints and stanchions. This may method may remove some of the colour from plastics, so please test a small area first before proceeding. Do not spray puddles of dye onto any paintwork because the alcohol in the spray may cause damage to it.

3. Patchy Application For Scenery And Landscapes:

The can may be held at different distances depending on the finish desired. For dense application on perhaps a tree or shrub, hold the can close to the surface and partially press the nozzle spraying small amounts directly onto the item. On ballast and roads, spray as noted in 1) above, but approx. 100mm from the surface with the nozzle partially depressed, but also spray up close to create dense patches.

4. Dabbing/Painting/Rubbing Onto Models. Modelmates can be dabbed, painted or rubbed onto models. Spray into a container, for example the lid of the can. While the dye is still wet use a fine or stiff brush to apply it to a surface. The dye can also be rubbed on using a damp cloth.

GENERAL SPRAYING INFORMATION

Modelmates may not adhere to very highly polished surfaces and some gloss surfaces. When sprayingModelmates on certain newly applied varnishes & enamels, the dye may not spread evenly over the surface but gather into small clumps. This is usually remedied by rubbing the surface of the varnish or enamel with a dry cloth. After rubbing, the dye will usually adhere to the surface. Alternately, gently clean the area with a little fairly liquid on a damp cloth. If a surface is varnished or enamelled, we recommend testing a small section before applying the whole model. Spots of concentrated dye may appear if the spray nozzle is only partially depressed, fully depress the nozzle when spraying. Heavy spraying may result in the dye dripping or puddling and colour may transfer on to other surfaces. Modelmates should not affect transfers, but please test small areas first. If the transfers are water applied and are not sealed, varnished or enamelled, then they may be damaged if Modelmates is removed using a damp tissue.

CAUTION Please always wear a good quality carbon filter mask when using Modelmates and please use gloves to protect hands. Use only in well ventilated areas.

CAUTION EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE: Pressurised container. Protect from sunlight and do not expose to temperatures exceeding 50°C. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray onto naked flame or any incandescent material. Keep away from sources of ignition - No smoking. Keep outof reach of children. Do not breathe vapour/spray. Avoid all contact with skin and eyes.

SNOW EFFECTS SPRAY: CAUTION:

Practice spraying before final use, and always test on hidden surfaces or off-cuts and ensure compatibility and adhesion. Snow spray cannot be removed from most textured surfaces (including model trees, shrubs and grass). It can however be removed from most smooth surfaces by scraping off as much as possible, thenrubbing off what remains using a clean dry cloth and with the assistance of furniture polish spray. Removal of the spray is more difficult once it has hardened. The spray will stick upon contact and takes about an hour to dry slightly harder and a few weeks to fully dry further where it cracks like real snow. It will never full dry hard.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ensure all surfaces are clean, dry and free from grease. Mask areas of the model that are not to be sprayed.Spray over suitable protective sheets. Shake the can for at least one minute before use (and often whilespraying). The can has to be slightly warm to work effectively. There is a ball bearing inside and it should rattle when the can is shaken. If the ball bearing does not rattle, warm the can in your hands for about 5 minutes and then shake it vigorously. Keep doing this until you hear the ball bearing and the can feels warm. See below about temperatures exceeding 50°C. The spray will come out very fast if the nozzle is fully depressed. Press the nozzle very gently to create a very light spray and a light dusting of snow. Press harder and more will come out giving the effect of more heavy snow. Fully depress the nozzle for a large amounts of snow. Spray to one side or into the cap before spraying to check that the nozzle is clear. When through spraying, invert can and spray for about one second to remove excess snow from nozzle. Should the nozzle become blocked, remove it and place it in boiling water for a few minutes and it will clear. Wash hands after use. Do not spray into eyes or onto the skin, avoid inhalation of the vapour or spray.Two main methods of application are:-

1) Even Application: Hold the can in an upright position approx. 300mm from the model. Press the nozzle very slightly and a small amount of snow effect will be released from the nozzle. Move the can across the model (or a part of the model) in one smooth motion.

2) Dense Application: Hold the can in an upright position with the nozzle very close to the model. Press the nozzle very slightly and a small amount of snow effect will be released from. Keep nozzle pointing at the same spot or move it slightly depending on the amount of snow desired.

Alternately, simply point the nozzle as close or far from an object as you wish and press light or hard to achive the effect you are after.

CAUTION EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE:

Pressurised container. Protect from sunlight and do not expose to temperatures exceeding 50°C. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray onto naked flame or any incandescent material. Keep away from sources of ignition - No smoking. Keep out of reach of children. Do not breathe vapour/spray. Avoid all contact with skin and eyes. Use only in well ventilated areas.

FAQ Guide

Is it a paint:

No, it’s a spray dye, not an acrylic. It dries really fast - usually within a minute.How many coats should I put on:Because it’s a dye and not a paint, the more coats that are applied the darker the colour gets. At exhibitions we have been applying dozens of light coats on plastic wagons, and where it has not been washed off it has become darker and darker. By spraying on light coats and smudging them off, really dark areas can be created.Should I apply heavy coats: We recommend that very light coats are applied, but as you gradually get more used to the spray, heavier coats can be applied, especially for smudging on the sides of plastic wagons.

Will Modelmates colour a surface, like a paint does:

(It can change the colour of a light coloured surface, see the question above).If a light coloured surface is sprayed with a darker Modelmates colour, then Modelmates will be very visible. If a dark surface is sprayed, Modelmates will be hardly visible at all. For example, if a dark surface is sprayed with Light Grey it will not change the colour of the surface to Light Grey, it will still be the same dark colour but possibly slightly duller. Modelmates is translucent and will not change the colour of a dark surface, but depending on the surface, will change the look of it and make it look a little weathered.　

If I apply lots of coats of Modelmates, will it darken a surfaces:

Modelmates sits on the surface of non porous materials. The more coats that are applied, the darker it will get. Having made that point, the lightest of the sprays is Light Grey, and it takes a large number of coats to get Light Grey to darken,but it’s still a good for general dulling spray and it will gradually darken to Slate Grey if enough coats are applied.

How long does it take to dry:

Because the spray is alcohol based, a light spray coat takes less than a minute to dry. A heavy quantity of spray can take up to 5 minutes.

Does it wash off:

Modelmates is water soluble (able to be dissolved, especially in water), therefore, it becomes soluble again when water is applied to it. It will wash off most non porous surfaces with a little soap and water, but Modelmates will be absorbed by porous surfaces/materials and cannot be washed off them. Some painted surfaces are porous, and even some plastics are porous, so if Modelmates is intended to be washed off, please always test before use. If a surface/material is porous, then an option is to seal it first before using Modelmates.

What is meant by the word porous:

The Compact Oxford English Dictionary definition of Porous is “(of a rock or other material) having minute spaces through which liquid or air may pass”. The dictionary also gives a definition of seal – “apply a non-porous coating to (a surface) to make it impervious”.

Can I use Modelmates over black things, like train undercarriage:

Because it’s a translucent dye and not a paint, it is very hard to see on black surfaces. You will not really see Modelmates on anything that is already very dark or black. The Compact Oxford English Dictionary defines translucent as “allowing light to pass through partially”. When a surface is sprayed, Modelmates sits upon it as a translucent deposit.

It is very visible on a light coloured surface, but almost invisible on dark or black surfaces.

Will the spray damage plastic or painted finishes:

It is possible, so please read the How To Use page for information on this.Plastics - the quality and method of colouring of plastics varies considerably. We have applied puddles of spray to our through coloured plastic wagons literally hundreds of times and it always washes off without any visible damage. However, we have sprayed a puddle of dye on to a cheaper wagon and it and the colour was dissolved slightly, leaving a white smudge.Because the spray is alcohol based, when a puddle of it is applied to a surface it might dissolve it, thereby removing the colour and/or damaging the plastic. This is why it is always best to test the spray on small hidden areas of a model first before final use.

Painted and printed surfaces - some painted and printed surfaces are porous and can be permanently stained by Modelmates even when applying light coats, please always test before use. If the paint is porous, then an option is to seal it first before using Modelmates.

We had one question regarding spraying puddles of dye on to painted surfaces.

Because the spray is alcohol based, if a puddle of it is applied to a painted surface it might dissolve the paint - so it is best not to do this. One loco we tested had such a fine paint coat that even a slightly heavy application removed the surface of the paint, simply because of the alcohol dissolved it.

Strangely enough, it created a great effect, but it could not be removed because the paint itself had been changed.

If I spray a glossy surface, will it make it a matt finish:

No. Unfortunately, if a glossy surface is sprayed, then after spraying it will still be glossy.Because the spray is translucent, you will just see the glossy surface through Modelmates.

Top 10 Tips To Start Oil Painting Like a Pro

by: Ralph Serpe
(Although these are oil painting picture techniques, most of these still apply to models,
remember too, that you can use oils on model figures as long as you have based it with an acrylic coat).

LEARN HOW TO DRAW
You will be amazed at how much learning how to draw will help improve your oil paintings.
In fact, years ago art students were not permitted to paint until they learned the fundamentals of drawing.
Drawing gets you more in touch with value, line and form without the distraction of color.
Find a good book on drawing fundamentals and start there.

LEARN ABOUT COLOR

Nothing can confuse a beginner more than color.
You need to have a good understanding of color theory if you intend on producing high quality paintings.
Concepts like color temperature, hue and intensity are very important and should be studied.
Once you have a good understanding of color theory, you must then learn how to mix your colors.
There is much more to color mixing then meets the eye.
For instance, you cannot mix any old blue with any old yellow and get the perfect green.
Certain blues and yellows behave differently than others, so you must learn about the properties of each color.

PERSPECTIVE

Perspective in painting is one of the biggest hurdles for beginners.
Sometimes a painting just looks “wrong”, and often it is because the perspective in the painting is off.
Learning about perspective will teach you how to properly translate a 3-dimensional world onto a 2-dimensional canvas or other support.
Learning perspective is a necessary ingredient toward producing convincing oil paintings.
There is of course an exception to this, if you are producing an abstract work and your intentions are to warp the perspective.

MATERIALS

Materials to an oil painter are like what a guitar is to a guitarist.
A guitarist cannot play without his instrument nor can he play without understanding how his instrument works.
Your painting materials are your instruments.
They are what enable you to express yourself, so learning more about them is an absolute must.
Learn about the different kinds of brushes and what they do. Know your paints.
Not all colors behave the same. Some are more transparent or opaque than others.
Know your supports and the difference between them. The list goes on.

TECHNIQUES

There are a plethora of oil painting techniques that you can learn to create your paintings.
Techniques like wet on wet, glazing, alla prima, knife painting, etc. should all be explored.
Working with various techniques will help you develop your own unique style and help you to produce more interesting paintings.

START WITH A CONCEPT

I remember not too long ago, what a frustrated painter I was.
I had 10 or so incomplete paintings collecting dust in the corner of my small studio.
I would attempt to complete these paintings over and over again, until finally I had to take a step back and try and understand what I was doing wrong.
The reason I lost interest and was unable to complete these paintings, was because I did not have a concept in mind before I started.
I would start haphazardly without a clear vision of what I really wanted to accomplish. Concepts are methods for solving problems in a painting.
What do you want your painting to be about? When you have a blueprint or roadmap in mind before you start painting, there is no room for diversion.
You must stick to your plan.

MASTER YOUR BRUSH

A very important part of oil painting is having control over your brush.
Without good brush control , your effectiveness as a painter is limited.
Make sure you have the best possible brushes you can afford.
One of the biggest mistakes artists make, myself included, is not reloading the brush enough.
Make certain you always have enough paint on your brush so that there is always a layer of paint between your brush and the canvas.
Do not try and scrub the paint into the canvas. Paint your strokes and leave them be.
Don’t over work your brushstrokes.

FAT OVER LEAN

Follow this rule and you will reduce the chance of your paint cracking.
Each layer of your oil painting should have a higher oil content then the one below it.

ORGANIZED PALETTE

Having a clean organized palette is an essential part of good painting.
Get into the habit of laying out your colors the same way every time you paint.
Arrange your colors along the edges of your palette leaving a lot of room in the center for mixing.
Don’t be afraid to squeeze out a good amount of paint, especially your whites.
You will be more productive if you aren’t continuously stopping to squeeze out more paint.
Make certain to include all of the colors you think you will need to complete that session of painting.
It’s a good idea to continuously wipe your palette clean during the painting process.
Keep some alcohol handy so that you can keep the mixing area of your palette clean.

INSPIRATION

If you are ever feeling uninspired don’t get discouraged.
Try taking a walk outside, breath in the air, look around at the beautiful earth God created.
Try playing music while you are painting. You will be surprised how music can affect your painting.
Visit a museum or local gallery. Viewing other works of art can really get your creative juices flowing.

Watching the movie of what your model is based upon can give lots of ideas for colours, use stop motion to get detail.

 Our artist M. Garratt recently carried out a modification on the Walther P99 resin model prop kit by adding a Silencer for one of our customers, this silencer was converted from a model toy gun from a cheap toy store. With some modification to the barrel of the gun it was made to screw in making it removable, Awesome. We now offer this additional service on this product in the Options menu.

Some cheap toy guns have electronics that have light & sound FX inside, you can take these out and use them in a lot of model props with some modifications, the ideas are endless, get experimenting.

 Critter Clay™ is the #1 choice of taxidermists, schools, craft stores, museums, hobbyists and professionals worldwide because of its great detail, fine texture and low shrinkage rate (0-1%). Critter Clay™ dries to a hard finish. It is a lightweight, extra strong, 1part, ready to use, moist, water-based modeling clay. It is non-toxic, non-shrinking, non-cracking and non-hazardous. it accepts all paints and is great for intricate work. Critter Clay™ is used in wildlife art studios, museums, schools, and motion picture studios.

• Self-hardening / Air Drying Multi-Puurpose Synthetic Clay
• 1 part product (no mixing is required).
• Water-based Modeling Clay
• Feeling of Plasticity.
• Dries to a hard finish.
• Lightweight when cured / Extra Strong!
• 0-1% shrinkage rate.
• Great detail with fine texture.
• Non-toxic, Non-hazardous
• Little or No Cracking
• Freeze-thaw Stable
• Easy to Use, Paint & Finish
• Simple water cleanup
• 2 Colors:  Native/Earthtone & White

Directions & Recommendations

• Ready to use out of the bag. Once exposed to air, Critter Clay™ begins to harden.
• Critter Clay™ sticks best to a clean, textured, or roughed up surface.
• Use Water to wet fingers or tools, to feather, shape and add final details.
• Air drying and curing time varies with size of project and working conditions. Drying and curing time is typically 1-6 Days (depending on thickness, size and working conditions).
• Keep Critter Clay™ sealed in a plastic bag until you want it to dry and harden. *If clay becomes somewhat dry due to an open bag, you may restore it with a couple squirts of pure water, then let it sit, sealed iin the bag overnight.
• For extra shelf life, this product may be refrigerated or frozen. It is freeze-thaw stable.
• Critter Clay™ accepts all paints and is great for intricate work.

 

 

NEW!! Many sculptors desire an extra firm clay that can be carved and used for projects that require fine details. Super Sculpey FIRM is the extra firm sculpting clay that is grey in colour, allowing sculptors to create fine details and photographers to catch these fine points on film. Unique in both form & colour, this new sculpting clay brings creative options to the sculpting world.

Super Sculpey is the ultimate sculpting compound. It is used by movie studios and professionals worldwide and a favourite with doll makers.

History

In response to the popularity of Sculpey. Super Sculpey was formulated. Users required a clay of greater tensile strength and Super Sculpey was the answer.

Characteristics

Super Sculpey is a translucent pink-beige colour. It is an easy to condition polymer requiring minimal hand kneading or rolling through a pasta machine to prepare for use. It features fine tooling and detailing characteristics and does not fill in after tooling. If you opt to  paint your cured piece, we recommend acrylic paint or the application of water based glaze prior to painting with oils. Paint should be applied in thin washes rather than thick coats for the best paint to clay bond. After curing Super Sculpey bakes to a ceramic-like hardness and can be sanded to a fine smoothness.

Curing

Super Sculpey should be cured in a preheated 275 degree F (130 degree C) oven for 15 minutes per quarter inch thickness. DO NOT MICROWAVE. For example a piece of 1/2″ thickness would be cured for 30 minutes. The layering method is recommended for larger pieces of construction.

 Use

The translucent pink-beige colour has made Super Sculpey the favoured polymer of many art doll makers. Because of the fine tooling and detailing characteristics of Super Sculpey. It is frequently the chosen clay for making prototypes from which moulds are made for sculptures. Additionally, artists are producing finely detailed finished sculptures using Super Sculpey.

Storage

Sculpey polymer clay products should remain fresh if properly stored in a cool place, away from heat & direct sunlight.

Here is a please customer who purchased a Martian Tripod Fighting Machine sci-fi model kit from Frontier Models.

Hi Steve,

Thought you might like to see the Fighting Machine resin model all assembled. I did the scene with parson Nathaniel and his wife. “No-no Nathaniel”

regards, Tony Slafta (USA)

Steve`s Model Tip: Recreate a famous piece of artwork / diorama by adding this model plastic kit of the Aurora Cruiser 1917 Battleship, the ship is approx 11.5″ long.

This Martian Flying War Machine sci-fi model kit is to 1/35 scale and has been converted from the Warp resin kit by N. Summersfield (UK), the front nose section was cut off to produce a mould for the clear perspex to be formed over, lights have been added for a great effect, the hollow cast body has plenty of room for the wiring layout. We can supply this model ready made and lit at Frontier Models.