Modelmates weathering spray is a translucent spray dye, not an acrylic paint.Modelmates colours have dirty tones to them which makes things look old and weathered. It dries fast and is easy to use.Its water soluble. Spray some into a dish and let it dry. Wet it and it will dissolve and behave similar to a water colour paint and can be brush applied.Spray it onto a non-porous surface, let it dry, then smudge and wipe it with a damp tissue to create a weathered effect.See the How To Use page for instructions on spraying.Modelmates is ozone friendly.

Weathering spray dye

MODELMATES

HOW TO USE & GENERAL INFORMATION

It’s Dye, Not Paint - For Use On Models & Scenery - Interior Use Only. All sprays are 200ml sized cans.WARNING:Practice spraying before final use. Always test first on hidden surfaces or off-cuts of a model and ensure compatibilityand adhesion. We recommend practicing techniques on cheaper, disposable models before spraying anything of value. Modelmates can cause permanent discolouration, please read the information below before use. If a surface is porous it will absorb the dye and be permanently discoloured. Many painted and printed surfaces are porous and will be permanently stained by the dye. If in doupt, then seal the surface with Testers Dullcote - 1260 flat lacquer, or similar quality matt lacquer before spraying with Modelmates.

PREPARATIONS BEFORE USE:

Ensure all surfaces are clean, dry and free from grease.Mask areas of the model that are not to be sprayed.Spray over suitable protective sheets.Shake the can for at least 15 seconds before use (and often while spraying).Spray to one side first to clear the nozzle.

THERE ARE FOUR MAIN METHODS OF APPLYING MODELMATES - LISTED BELOW:

1. Even Spray Application For Non Porous Models:The objective is to spray a mist of dye onto the model.Hold the can in an upright position 300mm to 400mm from the model. Point the spray nozzle at the protective sheets to one side and not at the model itself. Fully depress the nozzle and start spraying the protective sheets and immediately move the spray across the model once only in one smooth motion keeping the nozzle fully depressed all the time. Stop depressing the nozzle as soon as the spray has passed over the model. Do not spray back and forth, just once in one direction. The faster the can is moved, the less spray is applied - so move fast, not slow. It always surprises me how much dye is deposited this way, so please spray lightly at first, at least until you are happy with your technique.Use sparingly, apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat, and let each dry before applying another.

Drying time is usually less than a minute.

If the model being sprayed in non-porous it can be smudged with a slightly damp tissue to create a patchy

weathered finish.

The spray must be fully dry and the tissue must be just slightly damp and not wet, otherwise too

much dye will be removed. I find a twisting motion best for smudging. Hold the tissue gently against the surface and twist it, just removing just a small amount of dye at a time.

Another method for more detailed work is to wipe the dye off the surface with the edge of a tissue or with a cotton bud. The wetter the tissue the more dye will be removed.

Re-sprayed and re-smudge several times and the dye will build up where it has not been smudged and will darken in these areas.

2. Dense Spray Application For Non-porous Models:

For a really rustic effect on non-porous plastic models, spray gently with the nozzle almost touching the surface to create a small puddle of dye. Wait about 5 minutes for it to dry - it has to dry completely or this method will not work. Wipe it off gently with slightly damp tissue leaving dry dye trapped in cracks and protrusions such as board joints and stanchions. This may method may remove some of the colour from plastics, so please test a small area first before proceeding. Do not spray puddles of dye onto any paintwork because the alcohol in the spray may cause damage to it.

3. Patchy Application For Scenery And Landscapes:

The can may be held at different distances depending on the finish desired. For dense application on perhaps a tree or shrub, hold the can close to the surface and partially press the nozzle spraying small amounts directly onto the item. On ballast and roads, spray as noted in 1) above, but approx. 100mm from the surface with the nozzle partially depressed, but also spray up close to create dense patches.

4. Dabbing/Painting/Rubbing Onto Models. Modelmates can be dabbed, painted or rubbed onto models. Spray into a container, for example the lid of the can. While the dye is still wet use a fine or stiff brush to apply it to a surface. The dye can also be rubbed on using a damp cloth.

GENERAL SPRAYING INFORMATION

Modelmates may not adhere to very highly polished surfaces and some gloss surfaces. When sprayingModelmates on certain newly applied varnishes & enamels, the dye may not spread evenly over the surface but gather into small clumps. This is usually remedied by rubbing the surface of the varnish or enamel with a dry cloth. After rubbing, the dye will usually adhere to the surface. Alternately, gently clean the area with a little fairly liquid on a damp cloth. If a surface is varnished or enamelled, we recommend testing a small section before applying the whole model. Spots of concentrated dye may appear if the spray nozzle is only partially depressed, fully depress the nozzle when spraying. Heavy spraying may result in the dye dripping or puddling and colour may transfer on to other surfaces. Modelmates should not affect transfers, but please test small areas first. If the transfers are water applied and are not sealed, varnished or enamelled, then they may be damaged if Modelmates is removed using a damp tissue.

CAUTION Please always wear a good quality carbon filter mask when using Modelmates and please use gloves to protect hands. Use only in well ventilated areas.

CAUTION EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE: Pressurised container. Protect from sunlight and do not expose to temperatures exceeding 50°C. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray onto naked flame or any incandescent material. Keep away from sources of ignition - No smoking. Keep outof reach of children. Do not breathe vapour/spray. Avoid all contact with skin and eyes.

SNOW EFFECTS SPRAY: CAUTION:

Practice spraying before final use, and always test on hidden surfaces or off-cuts and ensure compatibility and adhesion. Snow spray cannot be removed from most textured surfaces (including model trees, shrubs and grass). It can however be removed from most smooth surfaces by scraping off as much as possible, thenrubbing off what remains using a clean dry cloth and with the assistance of furniture polish spray. Removal of the spray is more difficult once it has hardened. The spray will stick upon contact and takes about an hour to dry slightly harder and a few weeks to fully dry further where it cracks like real snow. It will never full dry hard.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ensure all surfaces are clean, dry and free from grease. Mask areas of the model that are not to be sprayed.Spray over suitable protective sheets. Shake the can for at least one minute before use (and often whilespraying). The can has to be slightly warm to work effectively. There is a ball bearing inside and it should rattle when the can is shaken. If the ball bearing does not rattle, warm the can in your hands for about 5 minutes and then shake it vigorously. Keep doing this until you hear the ball bearing and the can feels warm. See below about temperatures exceeding 50°C. The spray will come out very fast if the nozzle is fully depressed. Press the nozzle very gently to create a very light spray and a light dusting of snow. Press harder and more will come out giving the effect of more heavy snow. Fully depress the nozzle for a large amounts of snow. Spray to one side or into the cap before spraying to check that the nozzle is clear. When through spraying, invert can and spray for about one second to remove excess snow from nozzle. Should the nozzle become blocked, remove it and place it in boiling water for a few minutes and it will clear. Wash hands after use. Do not spray into eyes or onto the skin, avoid inhalation of the vapour or spray.Two main methods of application are:-

1) Even Application: Hold the can in an upright position approx. 300mm from the model. Press the nozzle very slightly and a small amount of snow effect will be released from the nozzle. Move the can across the model (or a part of the model) in one smooth motion.

2) Dense Application: Hold the can in an upright position with the nozzle very close to the model. Press the nozzle very slightly and a small amount of snow effect will be released from. Keep nozzle pointing at the same spot or move it slightly depending on the amount of snow desired.

Alternately, simply point the nozzle as close or far from an object as you wish and press light or hard to achive the effect you are after.

CAUTION EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE:

Pressurised container. Protect from sunlight and do not expose to temperatures exceeding 50°C. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray onto naked flame or any incandescent material. Keep away from sources of ignition - No smoking. Keep out of reach of children. Do not breathe vapour/spray. Avoid all contact with skin and eyes. Use only in well ventilated areas.

FAQ Guide

Is it a paint:

No, it’s a spray dye, not an acrylic. It dries really fast - usually within a minute.How many coats should I put on:Because it’s a dye and not a paint, the more coats that are applied the darker the colour gets. At exhibitions we have been applying dozens of light coats on plastic wagons, and where it has not been washed off it has become darker and darker. By spraying on light coats and smudging them off, really dark areas can be created.Should I apply heavy coats: We recommend that very light coats are applied, but as you gradually get more used to the spray, heavier coats can be applied, especially for smudging on the sides of plastic wagons.

Will Modelmates colour a surface, like a paint does:

(It can change the colour of a light coloured surface, see the question above).If a light coloured surface is sprayed with a darker Modelmates colour, then Modelmates will be very visible. If a dark surface is sprayed, Modelmates will be hardly visible at all. For example, if a dark surface is sprayed with Light Grey it will not change the colour of the surface to Light Grey, it will still be the same dark colour but possibly slightly duller. Modelmates is translucent and will not change the colour of a dark surface, but depending on the surface, will change the look of it and make it look a little weathered.　

If I apply lots of coats of Modelmates, will it darken a surfaces:

Modelmates sits on the surface of non porous materials. The more coats that are applied, the darker it will get. Having made that point, the lightest of the sprays is Light Grey, and it takes a large number of coats to get Light Grey to darken,but it’s still a good for general dulling spray and it will gradually darken to Slate Grey if enough coats are applied.

How long does it take to dry:

Because the spray is alcohol based, a light spray coat takes less than a minute to dry. A heavy quantity of spray can take up to 5 minutes.

Does it wash off:

Modelmates is water soluble (able to be dissolved, especially in water), therefore, it becomes soluble again when water is applied to it. It will wash off most non porous surfaces with a little soap and water, but Modelmates will be absorbed by porous surfaces/materials and cannot be washed off them. Some painted surfaces are porous, and even some plastics are porous, so if Modelmates is intended to be washed off, please always test before use. If a surface/material is porous, then an option is to seal it first before using Modelmates.

What is meant by the word porous:

The Compact Oxford English Dictionary definition of Porous is “(of a rock or other material) having minute spaces through which liquid or air may pass”. The dictionary also gives a definition of seal – “apply a non-porous coating to (a surface) to make it impervious”.

Can I use Modelmates over black things, like train undercarriage:

Because it’s a translucent dye and not a paint, it is very hard to see on black surfaces. You will not really see Modelmates on anything that is already very dark or black. The Compact Oxford English Dictionary defines translucent as “allowing light to pass through partially”. When a surface is sprayed, Modelmates sits upon it as a translucent deposit.

It is very visible on a light coloured surface, but almost invisible on dark or black surfaces.

Will the spray damage plastic or painted finishes:

It is possible, so please read the How To Use page for information on this.Plastics - the quality and method of colouring of plastics varies considerably. We have applied puddles of spray to our through coloured plastic wagons literally hundreds of times and it always washes off without any visible damage. However, we have sprayed a puddle of dye on to a cheaper wagon and it and the colour was dissolved slightly, leaving a white smudge.Because the spray is alcohol based, when a puddle of it is applied to a surface it might dissolve it, thereby removing the colour and/or damaging the plastic. This is why it is always best to test the spray on small hidden areas of a model first before final use.

Painted and printed surfaces - some painted and printed surfaces are porous and can be permanently stained by Modelmates even when applying light coats, please always test before use. If the paint is porous, then an option is to seal it first before using Modelmates.

We had one question regarding spraying puddles of dye on to painted surfaces.

Because the spray is alcohol based, if a puddle of it is applied to a painted surface it might dissolve the paint - so it is best not to do this. One loco we tested had such a fine paint coat that even a slightly heavy application removed the surface of the paint, simply because of the alcohol dissolved it.

Strangely enough, it created a great effect, but it could not be removed because the paint itself had been changed.

If I spray a glossy surface, will it make it a matt finish:

No. Unfortunately, if a glossy surface is sprayed, then after spraying it will still be glossy.Because the spray is translucent, you will just see the glossy surface through Modelmates.

How to make an avatar on blogs? Michael Jackson is still alive in avatars.

by: Gregory House

An avatar is a image that reflects somebody’s character and is used in different web forums, blogs and huge social networking sorces as, for instance, MySpace. With the help of avatars you may make an attempt to guess what kind of a character is concealed behind them.

Avatars can “tell” other persons even more facts than an ordinary photo can do. In the time of choosing an avatar you go by your individual ideas, interests and there is no astonishment that in such a way you reveal your likes and dislikes.

The concepts used to avatars are equivalent to those used for ordinary photos.

Avatars can not only be applied for entertaining as, for instance, http://www.avatarswizard.com/games-avatars/sonic-the-hedgehog/2393-game-avatar.html furthermore you may make your individual avatars by yourself. What advantages does the use of avatars have?

On the one hand, you need accept that it is much more entertaining to “talk” with a citizen you may see at least than with an anonymous stranger.

Secondly, after seeing an avatar you by the time mentioned have a general conception of a person’s interests.

These are special advantages of aplliance of avatars, essentially it deals with blogs.

You will be greatly astonished, although you may make your own avatar for free and it will not demand much of your time. Then, what tipps should you attempt to make your own avatars?

First, you need visit one of the resources offering free of charge avatars. You may without any difficulties find a great amount of them in net.

The following stage will be to sign up. Here you should pass your e-mail address. It is necessary in order you will be able to post comments.

Then in a while you will receive an e-mail by means of which you may activate your link. After getting the e-mail you ought to click the link to keep on.

Then you go back to the source.

The question will come out whether you desire to receive their information with the just completed news or not. After giving an answer to the above mentioned question you may visit the account page. There an image can be assigned by you.

At present your task is to make a choice of an image, that will be your future avatar,

that implies to http://www.avatarswizard.com/animated-avatars/72-download-avatars.html.

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Nevertheless be certain that your picture is square. In case you have already made up your mind what picture to apply you ought to decide concerning its rating.

It can be G, PG, R or X. If you have fulfiled everything correctly then your picture will be uploaded to the server.

In this case all you ouht to do is only to visit the home page of the resource and associate your picture with your e-mail.

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Do not forget about the opportunity of downloading new free of charge avatars dealing with such prominent singer as Michael Jackson.

These avatars will for sure remind you the songs of the above mentioned prominent pop-singer and make them vital one more time.

Anime Has A Common Visual Style

by: Ben Pate
 
Anime is the latest buzzword all over the United States.
This term is derived from the Japanese word used for depicting animation and the world outside Japan uses it to refer to any work of animation from Japan.
This animation has illustrations that have been prepared by hand or created with computer and made use of in television shows, films, video games
and web-based series that include all types of genre.

This particular version of art has a common visual style that includes characters with large and wide eyes and pronounced expressions of the face.
Characters who get embarrassed or awkward may sweat heavily and also blush if they feel romantically attracted to any other character.
Japanese anime is a huge export of a cultural art form out of Japan and has been adapted into many languages.

Another highly admired type of Japanese animation would be the manga.
Manga is defined as a Japanese comic book that is read from back to front, opposite the western books.
A lot of the magna series number over 20 volumes and have become television shows.
One trend in the states has caused increased interest in Japanese culture.

Manga and anime memorabilia and collectibles are popular items to purchase.
Collectors have spent large sums of money buying all sorts of merchandise in this genre.
Due to its popularity, video game sales have soared and all things Japanese have become extremely popular.
Umpteen nonexclusive libraries now change wide mania collections and are commonly out of caudal because umpteen fans e’er blemish them out.
There are mania groups and clubs that provide to switch comics and conscionable get their worship for Asian inanimateness.

Rattling obsessed fans are described as otaku. Otaku is a Japanese word that is often made use of in the United States to refer to diehard anime fans,
however it carries a negative meaning in Japan. Some of these fans get dressed like their loved animated characters and term it as cosplay.
Cosplay also means costume play and the fans often come to the comic conventions dressed in costumes.
Such shows are usually called “comic-cons” and many of them take place each year across the nation.
There are new comic books on display, the creators of comic book heroes and villains come to meet and greet their loyal supporters,
and all sorts of related items are sold here too. You can choose to attend lectures, discussion groups, awards ceremonies, and screenings.
Toy collectors also participate with a view to discovering valuable specimens for their collections.

Below is the latest movie Goku charicater…

 Our artist M. Garratt recently carried out a modification on the Walther P99 resin model prop kit by adding a Silencer for one of our customers, this silencer was converted from a model toy gun from a cheap toy store. With some modification to the barrel of the gun it was made to screw in making it removable, Awesome. We now offer this additional service on this product in the Options menu.

Some cheap toy guns have electronics that have light & sound FX inside, you can take these out and use them in a lot of model props with some modifications, the ideas are endless, get experimenting.

What is a Garage kit?Do you fondly remember all the monsters in your favorite Sci-Fi Fantasy and Horror movies? Have you ever longed to build a model of the evil aliens from Invasion of the Saucermen or the creature creations of master animator Ray Harryhausen? Well, thanks to modern moulding and casting materials and a group of industrious individuals from all corners of the world, there are kits available of more aliens, monsters and creatures than you may have ever imagined! Garage Kits were essentially resin castings of sculptures created and moulded in the garages or basements of talented fans of Sci-Fi and Horror films.However, in recent years Garage model kits have gone from being an interesting modeling phenomenon to a full-fledged industry with companies like Killer Kits, MIM, Federation Models, Solarwind, Lunatic Fringe and Geometric producing an astounding array of subjects in resin and vinyl. Today, the term Garage Kit encompasses everything from high-quality kits from large manufacturers to the individually produced, very limited edition resin kits from the guy down the street. Often it will be the individual producer that provides the more obscure and interesting characters. The challenge and anticipation of crafting that creature that haunted your childhood dreams can become a very exciting hobby. Most kits are not that challenging, but it’s best to know everything you might face and be prepared to correct it.

Kit Preparation: Many garage kits do not come in coloured boxes with nice box art, often there are no instructions and it’s up to you to figure out how all the parts go together. So, a bit of knowledge about your subject and some modelling knowledge will come in handy. Many garage kits do not come in coloured boxes with nice box art, often there are no instructions and it’s up to you to figure out how all the parts go together. So, a bit of knowledge about your subject and some modelling knowledge will come in handy.

Cleaning up: The best way to start your project is with a bath. Using a mild soap and warm water, carefully wash off all parts to eliminate any mould release agent. Handle thin, fragile looking parts with extreme care since the resin can be brittle and break easily. Because of the manual nature of casting garage kits, there can be excessive amounts of flash, but be careful in removing it. Sometimes it can be difficult to distinguish between what is flash and what is intended to be detail. This is where knowledge of your model subject will serve you well.

Reference materials play an important part in this pre-assembly stage as well. Although most resin and vinyl garage model kits build up into good representations of their subjects, there are often some details missing. If complete or at least near complete accuracy is important to you, then Movie DVD`s are your best bet as they often have stop motion features to see the close up detail of a given subject.

Assembly: Dry fitting parts on a garage kit is essential. Test fitting and shaping are the best way to assure a proper fit. Since most mating surfaces are smooth and without male/female locaters, pinning parts together for strength is another important part of assembly. The trick to pinning accurately is finding the center of both parts in order to locate the pins. After you have shaped both mating surfaces so they match up to your satisfaction, draw an “X” on the mating surface of one of the parts. Be sure that the “X” overlaps the mating surface so you can see its outer legs when the parts are placed together. When you place the two parts together, mark the location of the legs on the second part. Now you have reference markings to make a second “X” on the mating surface of the that part. When you drill holes at the center of the two “Xs”, the holes should line up with each other. Using super glue, affix a small piece of wire (a piece of paper clip works well here) into one hole. After it is dry and secure, test fit again before finally gluing the part in place. Of course, super glue is an absolute necessity for assembling any resin kit, but 5 minute epoxy can come in handy for attaching parts that still have gaps even after all the sanding and shaping is done. The epoxy helps to fill the gaps from within and provides a strong joint. Any remaining gaps can be handled with gap filling super glue or model putty. However if the surface you’re filling needs detailing to match surrounding areas, Milliput Epoxy Putty becomes indispensable. As the two-part putty sets up, you can detail it and blend the edges into a seamless surface. It is easily worked and smoothed with water and it holds detail well. Once you’ve assembled your garage kit, you’re ready to move on to the most rewarding part of the model making process, the painting.

Painting: Resin model kits accept nearly any kind of paint you’d use on a styrene kit; enamels, acrylics, lacquers or oils, or any combination. On the other hand, vinyl model kits can be very picky about paint, so stick with the water-based acrylics since enamels and oils will not fully dry on a vinyl surface. Games Workshops Citadel paints are ideal for both resin & vinyl, a base / primer coat is strongly advised, I use an aerosol acrylic type in matt black or matt grey. But not a filler type primer as this will fill in detailing. Once your figure is primed, you can test nearly every painting technique you know. A monster’s surface practically cries out for washes, dry brushing, blending and shading or any other tricks you can think of. It’s all up to you.

Bases and Diorama`s: Although there is a trend toward including bases in garage kit models, many kits come as “stand alone” figures. Depending upon how much space you have to display your creations, you may want to create your own base or create a diorama to show off your creature. Bases can range from a simple stained wooden plaque to a landscaped, themed base that reflects your creation’s environment. Of course, dioramas for these creatures will let your imagination run wild. If you’re ready to take the plunge into the world of garage kits, you are now prepared to take your Science Fiction and Horror dreams and nightmares and build them into a reality.

For further model making advice email: Steve@frontiermodels.com